Fushiokaku Onsen

To ease the ache of walking everywhere, I headed to the outskirts of Osaka these past two days to onsens. An onsen is a hot bath, often with other naked strangers, and it is way more appealing than I am making it sound so far.  It’s one of the best things about Japan, actually, and even if you are an especially modest gaijin, you should still grit your teeth and do it.

In my opinion, the best onsens are not “spa world” or other crappy tourist traps like that, but the traditional serene ryokan where you can tilt your head back and admire the sakura (cherry blossoms) or maple leaves.  Thus I prefer the outdoor onsen. So when I went hunting, I found two incredibly nice onsen, only one of which I’m willing to talk about, because the other was my favorite and like native Japanese the best kept secrets stay secret because none of the tourist websites list it.

Fushiokaku Onsen is about a half hour outside of Osaka, at Ikeda station you take bus 134, 135, or 136 to Fushiokaku. It’s a huge hotel, with a restaurant, herb garden, etc. overlooking an especially loud stream with man-made waterfall. Not that that detracts from the ambiance at all – the building is a concrete hellhole, but don’t let that scare you off either.

Baths are on the fourth floor and are 1500 yen – they provide you with a towel, which you cannot keep (unfortunately). The women’s bath is really nice, truly.  There is a large indoor bath (eh) then three outdoor baths – a rock one, a large cedar tub, and then a marble/granite one with a higher temperature.  These are all situated in a very nice outdoor garden setting, with cherry and maple trees, as well as a waterfall. The best time to go would likely be night-time, as the waterfall and trees are lit up.  It was very peaceful – there were four other persons there total, none of whom were under 50 years old except me (always a good sign – go where the old ladies are, it’s always the best).

Website has some English, http://www.fushioukaku.co.jp/english/index.html, I understand some of their guest rooms have open air baths as well, so that would be reallyyyy nice for a night out of the city.

 

To Do List Update

1. Get a job
2. Get a work visa
3. Get an apartment (furnished) in Osaka or Kyoto
4. Pig out on onigiri, sandwiches, green tea, straight tea, milk tea, and vitamin c soda
5. Go to the temple and be thankful for items 1-5

Not bad for my first 48 jikan, ne?

 

Modeling in Japan?!

Feast your eyes for a moment on this guy:

Only for a moment. Only if you can stand it. Ok, done?

Looks like a typical American drunktard, ne? Well two thumbs up for that guy, because he’s one of the biggest actors in Japan. NFW, you say? WTF, you say?  Yea no kidding. He’s done ziplock, Nokia, and even music videos. While not as rich as say, Brad Pitt, he ain’t doing too shabby.

Dear God, why.

Japanese have an American fetish, an obsession with all things blonde and blue eyed. My first time here I was followed around by photographers, I kid you not. And I was weighing in at a chunky 163 at that point, looking nothing like Britney Spears, but they seriously dont care what you look like as long as you are fair skinned California looking girl (or guy).  So that brings me to my next exciting career endeavor: Modeling in Japan.  I sent some pictures to some agencies here yesterday (big agencies, not shittay places that do smut films) and I got responses in the same day, asking me to come in for interview. Shall I shave off another five pounds before going? Hmmmm…..

Current weight: 67kg – 149 lbs and counting(down!)

 

Kuroman Market

If you are in Osaka and looking for a good grocery store (one that isn’t a family mart or lawson) you might end up wandering around a bit. I decided today’s excursion should be Kuroman Market. It was pretty great. You can find meats, veggies, fruits, fresh fish, tempura, okonomiyaki, red bean cakes, green tea, pots and pans, tee shirts – basically anything you need. The prices are decent, unlike Hanshin and Hankyu which are overpriced department stores.

To get there get off Nippombashi on the Sakasuji line, take exit 8 or 9. Outside the exit, turn away from the main street and go one block (Don’t cross the large street). The market is one block from the exits on the right. If lost just ask for “marketo?” and someone will point you along the proper direction.

One of the vegetable stands had this life-size doll on the roof… kinda bizarre but…

Myself I was very pleased with the trip because I managed to find the best Japanese fruit there is – peaches. It has to be said that I’m not a huge fan of American peaches, but the ones here are fantastic, amazing, scrumptious, delicious, oishii! I got also beef and came home to make shabu shabu, some okonomiyaki, and my favorite sandwiches. Along the way I saw some other places I simply must investigate — Osaka Pool? Hmmmmm…..

 

Osaka at last!

I finally, finally arrived in Osaka at my new little flat around 10pm Japan time last night. This was after a 17 hour flight, then a 3 hour train ride, and hauling my ridiculously huge suitcase all over the country. Whew. The new place is super cute, and surprisingly roomy. I woke up this morning early, went to Lawson for milk tea and onigiri, and here I am.

For starters I need to look for and get a job. Then a visa. And most importantly go back to my favorite noodle stand in Dotomburi. And secure an apartment in Kyoto. Other stuff too. But for now, I look forward to eating my sandwiches in bed and reading my guidebook. Happiness.

Discoveries of the day: OSAKA FOOD OUTLET (Cosmosquare station – follow signs), and NANIWA KUISHINBO YOKOCHO, a mini food market with eighteen food shops in the Tempozan Seaside village (Osakako station, head toward the ferris wheel).

And, since I’m moving to the city of stairs and long distance power walking, I’m recording my weight(loss) starting today: 68kg and counting (down).

 

i heart shinkansen part II

I realized anew today how much I love the shinkansen. Unfortunately I realized this while I was taking local trains. For 12 hours. Local trains, unlike the shinkansen, pause at every stop. You must change stations. And if you dont really know where you’re going, and you dont understand Japanese, this becomes difficult.

Announcement: “Kamayakurae” (me shaking self awake, removing headphone) (looking at directions i wrote down.) “Yamakurayae.” Is that what he said? I barely heard what he said. Is he going to make another announcement? (listening and waiting) (train slowing down)

Announcement: “Kamayakurae des.” (me looking at paper again.) Did I write it down wrong? What time is it? Where the eff am I? (standing up, moving to go look at map inside train, which is in Japanese)

(train stops) (I hesitate) (I dodge out of the train at the last minute, unable to decide)

(train leaves) (I open guidebook) (read).

me: SHIT.

 

Kinosaki

Wanting a “day away” I decided to take a short trip to Kinosaki. Kinosaki is a fairly famous onsen town that is near Kyoto. And by near, I mean it took me nearly four hours to get home (warning: the local trains require many changes, take the limited express).

The town itself is cute and the train ride, although long, was peaceful and the view was beautiful. Once there, I wandered the streets with my new umbrella (yay!) and wandered into whatever onsens I cam across first. I’m not going to give away which one was the best, you’ll have to figure that out for yourself. I had tajima beef, which is supposedly better than Kobe Beef but I disagree.

The whole day it lightly rained and was cool – it was so peaceful there. I am really looking forward to going back when it snows; sit outside in the onsen, let the snow fall… perfection.

 

the most amazing breadstore. ever.

On the West Hachijo Shinkansen exit of Kyoto station, just after coming down the escalator to the taxi stand, there is a breadstore. This is a must see. It should be in every guide book. In fact I may nominate it for some Fodor’s award, Best Breadstores in the World (if there is any such thing).

First, I ate a delectable, crispy but not hard baguette type with creamy fish roe. A tiny bit spicy. It was…heaven. Second, I ate what has to be the best non-American hot dog I’ve ever had. It has stuff (?) on it, it’s in a tin wrapper, I had to stop myself from chewing off my own fingers that’s how great it was. Next, a chocolate croissant. Flaky. Sweet. Delicious. Au Bon Pain — you guys are nowhere near this level of perfection. I previously thought the best breads are in France. I was wrong. So, so, so wrong.

I still have half a bag of goodies left to try including: hot curry doughnut, melon bread (it’s green. and apparently made of melons.), custard cupcake, etc etc etc. Trust me when I say I have found food paradise.

P.S. I have moved into my new cute as a button and centrally located apartment in Kyoto. In other highly positive news I succeeded in figuring out how to use the microwave, the dishwasher, and the airconditioner! Mwa Ha! I am hoping to start my Japanese language lessons soon too.

 

Izu Hanto

After a very long (very long) train ride I finally arrived in Shimoda, the southernmost city in Izu-Hanto.

Mostly I just wandered around, which led to some discoveries but mostly I missed out on the “important parts” of the place (aka tourist destinations). I saw Ito, Atami, and Shimoda. Apparently there is a museum of antique music boxes there, but it wasnt mentioned in the guidebook I had along.

I stayed in a ryokan, which was nice and Japanese style, and had possibly the best kaiseki ever. Ever. The tuna sashimi was so fresh… the steamed crab miso soup was delicious. I’ve previously been told that no one mixes fish with miso soup — well that was a lie, and the end result (if done properly) is truly phenomenal. I also had, for the first time, something…ok I dont know what it was, but it was good. Picture is below. A prize to whoever knows what it is.

The ryokan also had an onsen, which I used. The thing about onsens is you go in naked. With other people. It’s a bit like taking a bath, except the tub is full of strangers. Usually (at least in my experience) extremely old women. It’s a little unsettling the first time, but after you’ve seen 10 naked 80 year old women, well you’ve seen it all. Time is not kind, not to anyone. Anyway, you get used to it and it’s actually kind of nice. This onsen was not spectacular but I was alone in there, and thus no one could see my cellulite riddled thighs. I also took the opportunity to weigh myself and despite me eating literally nonstop since my arrival, I have lost an astounding 4.3 pounds. It must be from dragging my luggages all over Osaka.

 

the crooked streets

The first time I visited Kyoto, on my list of must-sees (compiled with the aid of Google, my fiance, and various internet blogs) was “the crooked streets” which were “behind Westin” “with cool shops”. I couldn’t find any other information about the streets, not even their names, and so was left hoping vainly that some taxi driver would know enough English to figure out what I was talking about.

We stumbled upon the streets after lunch at an amazing crab place called Kani-ya, simply by following a group of Japanese ladies dressed in kimono. They were all I’d been told, and more; steep, crooked, jammed with Japanese, lined with shops of all sorts, lightly sprinkled with discarded cherry blossoms. My eyes widened in amazement as I watched grandmothers looking to be near 100 years old marching up the nearly 45 degree incline.

I tried potato croquettes and tempura. In the fall, there are steamed pumpkin dumplings that make you want to cry with happiness. Of course, they are often crowded. But when I went yesterday, they were nearly deserted, damp with rain from the receding thunderstorm. At the top of the hill was Kiyomizudera, and I sat on the steps licking my green tea and salt ice cream, doodling in my journal, thinking. Life here is really nice.

a quiet day